Saturday, January 30, 2016

New Mexico January/February 2016



Taos, Santa Fe, Albuquerque





Another Southwest air bargain to the geographic southwest. #IFLYSWA

It's been a long running joke about going to New Mexico. Years ago we won a hotel stay in Taos and let it expire. It was time to go at last.

We landed in Albuquerque spotting the Breaking Bad Items within minutes.

Easy to navigate airport and we had our rental car in no time at all. The drive to Taos was clear and beautiful in the 60's. The drive took a little more than an hour. We pulled into the El Monte Sagrado for 2 nights of exploration and a champagne tasting the next morning.

The grounds were covered in snow but skies were blue. Our room was Egyptian and fun. Lots of room and a patio.

Dinner reservations were for 7pm at The Love Apple. Well rated and located in an old church it was candle lit and cozy at our table located where the altar once stood. The food was outstanding and T enjoyed the best piece of trout either one of us has ever had. Truly amazing and a house specialty. Back to the room to rest after a day of fly 'n drive.

In the morning we had tickets for the Taos Wine Festival Champagne tasting brunch which just happened to be located at out hotel. It was a nice pairing from the house chef along with a variety of Prosecos (not champagne but delicious). We met some very nice folks at our table, including the parents of a young lady who was our server at The Love Apple. Amazing coincidence #1.

After lunch we headed for the gorgeous Rio Grande Gorge. The bridge across is a spectacular view down into the gorge and down river.

Our next stop, Taos Pueblo. Indigenous people have lived here more than 1000 years. Incredible to think this is in the American southwest. We bought a ticket to tour and were told of a Native American tribal dance that would be happening today. No tours, no cameras, no talking to them, but we were allowed to enter and watch. We looked at these small pueblos along with some resident when we heard the drums. Around the corner came a parade of Indians with the young warrior in front, the families in the middle, and the elder men in the back with drums chanting the verses. The desire to photograph this once in a lifetime accidental event was overwhelming. But the signs were serious and the dance parade was not without its own solemnity. Amazing experience.

We left in stunned silence and after an earlier failed attempt we finally found St Francis de Asis church. It was empty and we explored the historic church and it's unique decor. Then a priest appeared from a lower stairway. We said hello and asked if he was the Pastor. Fr. Dino is the pastor and he began to educate us on his amazing church. It became a fascinating lecture on history and the church and how the American Indians contemplated their church relics. Bloody crucifixes with human hair and the altar of the church slightly off center to mimic the tilted head of Jesus on the cross. Things we would have never have known or noticed. We were entranced with his every description including where to go and what to see in Santa Fe. We asked for a blessing for our 30th anniversary year and he gave it to us with a big hug. Amazing encounter.

Dinner in town at Orlando's was fantastic. They truly do Mexican food in an interesting, delicious, cant-wait-to-have-more, way. Great local spot, warm and inviting and authentic.

We went to bed knowing a storm was headed our way. Part of the trip was to get a little taste of rare for us snow. We woke up to the sound of pouring rain that quickly grew silent and the snow was coming down hard. By the time we got ready and packed for our drive to Santa Fe, everything was covered. We headed out ready (ish) for a white knuckle ride. It did not disappoint. Taos is over 5000 feet and so is Santa Fe so we weren't going downhill just away from the mountains. It was a slow, nerve racking ride but our rented Camry was a trouper and we arrived safely.

Oldest house in America
We got to Santa Fe to tour the famous Loretto Chapel and the Miraculous Staircase and to see the sights downtown. A beautiful little town square with lots to see, including the oldest house in America. We visited the historic San Miquel Church and rang the bell. The religious artifacts there are world class- if that is a proper description. As we walked back out front, the blowing snow swirled around us like sand at the beach or tumble weeds or some other warm weather analogy.

In front of the Governors Palace American Indians sell handmade jewelry. The spots are regulated so everything is guaranteed authentic. We shopped and chatted with vendors sitting huddled in the blowing snow.

Lunch at Pasquals was recommended by the girl at the Chamber office. The albondigas soup was interesting and delicious. We'd come back just for that. Out the front door only to realize we had made a full loop and were right back at our car in the public lot.

Off to the Marriott Courtyard for a nice view and shelter from the cold. Dinner choice was a wonderful place called The Loyal Hound. The food was first rate with a lamb burger cooked to perfection and some tasty local brews. We would be loyal hounds to this place if it were near home. Great vibe and fresh food served with pride.

Day 2 in Santa Fe started with breakfast at Clafoutis. This place is breakfast heaven on earth. Cheerful and inviting service combined with fresh food and great coffee. So good we had to grab some pastries after breakfast in case of a road emergency.

We headed into the hills to find the holy ground at Chimayo. People travel for miles and stand in line for Pilgrimages to this "Lourdes of the Southwest" but we arrived to an empty parking lot. We explored the beautiful churches and took our share of the spiritual dirt. The children s chapel and gardens were amazing with a dusting of snow. We felt the power of this special place and appreciated having the grounds all to ourselves to explore and contemplate.

Back on the road we drove down roads of interest to explore the beautiful landscape. We had seen signs for a Four Seasons Hotel and headed there for a cocktail. We got out of the car and the snow was falling soft and steady. To the bar for the bloody marys and views of the spectacular snowy desert. Seats by the fire and drinks in hand we reviewed the days photos and noticed how it doesn't get too much better than this.

Time for the final leg and and evening drive through light snow to Albuquerque. When we walked in the lobby the UNLV Mens basketball team was getting in their bus for the evening game against the UNM Lobos. The Albuquerque Marriott was a beautiful view and the staff was very attentive and friendly. Can't say enough good things about Marriott. #MarriottFan. We lounged in the room while T researched dinner. The research payed off. Jennifer Jones 101 is a James Beard award winning restaurant. It was worthy, big time. Dinner was delicious and intimate and we made friends with a woman from Palos Verdes at the next table. We enjoyed wonderful chat and we made some dish recommendations. Truly one of the great dinners in an unexpected place. New Mexico is serious about food.

In the morning we planned to check out the Sandia Mountain Tramway and see the view. Breakfast at the concierge lounge is so convenient and Marriott does it well. The drive to the mountain is scenic. When we arrived the gate told us the tram was not running because of high winds at the top of the mountain. We decided to pay to park and go inside just to explore. When we got inside the ticket booth announced the first run of the day would go up in 10 minutes. Dress warmly the temp at the top is -23 degrees with the wind chill. Whaaaaat?!? Ok we were ready-ish and we bought our tickets to take the spectacular ride to the top. It was sunny and nice but in about 15 seconds the bitter cold was apparent so we enjoyed it from inside the tram lodge. Skiing here is down the back so the ride up in the tram is just transport to the top of a ski lift on the other side. We photo and peeked and stood in the cold for up to several seconds, then took the first tram back down in about 15 minutes. The driver and us and one other guy wearing an LA cap. So I asked, where from? Woodland Hills. Oh, my home town. High School? El Camino. Oh, my alma mater. Amazing coincidence #2.

We drove back to downtown ABQ to see the Old Town and walked and window shopped. We had driven by a restaurant with a crowded parking lot but decided to yelp another choice. Once we got there it was a window only so we drove back. Good thing. We got a table and enjoyed another incredibly perfect Mexican meal. Chile Relleno that you will dream about. And don't forget their famous salsas. I go red and green, rainbow they call it. T looked up to see a couple from our home parish. Their granddaughter was our sons 7th grader buddy in school. Small world sometimes, they live there now. Amazing coincidence #3.

Time to kill at a local bar called Alien. The main attraction before Breaking Bad. Then back to ABQ airport for a pretty quick hour forty back to LAX.

After putting this trip off for so many years, it was one of the best combination of different sites and food and people and some snowy weather for fun. We would do it again someday but for now its one of our best travel memories and we'll leave it at that.

Too many pretty pics:








Somewhere on the back roads of Santa Fe