London and France 2016
A long awaited trip of a lifetime suddenly become a possibility on New Years Day 2016. Flights were on sale to London and we cold fly round trip for the cost of a usual one way. So we knew that our 30th anniversary year would be the year we finally made it to Paris. Our only question was how long- 2 or 3 weeks? We've never been anywhere for 3 weeks we pulled the trigger. aka mouse click. The tickets were bought and the planning could begin.
With some help from the consultants at Rick Steves travel and a visit to the local AAA (not for maps anymore!) we cobbled together an itinerary:
London 4 nights
Paris 5 nights
Lyon 1 night
Avignon 2 nights
Arles 1 night
Cassis 2 nights
Nice 1 night
London 1 night
Could this be possible? We listed places we never thought we would travel and yet once the list was assembled it all made sense. Chunnel to Paris, high speed train to Lyon then to Avignon where we rented a car for the remaining 600 miles of our journey driving the south of France. But lets start at the start.
So we had recently relocated to San Diego as noted in a previous entry. This required another Marriott night so we could avoid the drive on our flight date. The LAX MARIOTT was gracious and comfortable. Very nice service in a clearly very busy property.
Monday 9/19 we made our way to LAX and boarded the deal flight on Air New Zealand. Nice planes and fairly decent coach sardine packing. Lots of entertainment choices and a menu to order food and drinks from your seat. Cool. We were able to get a little sleep and arrived for a long entry line into the UK around Noon. We had booked car service so the texting started and we soon connected.
Tuesday 9/20/16
We made home at the beautiful St. Ermins Hotel in London. Right around the corner from Buckingham Palace it was classic and comfortable. Wine was served in the cozy lobby every evening and we took ours to the front porch.
We emptied suitcases, got some pounds and set out on foot to explore. We walked to Big Ben and Westminster and crossed the Thames. We decided to take a tour of Westminster Abbey and the audio guide gave us an incredible glimpse into this historic place. T has always been a royals fan, especially Diana and this was incredible to be there. Evensong was set to begin not long after our tour so we came back to hear the incredible voices of boys and men combine to reverberate around this cathedral the way they have done for coronations and weddings and funerals for the world famous. It was inspiring and and acoustic treat.
We had made it to the evening to pretend it as night night time. We braved the Tube right away so we could learn it and use it on our trip.
Easy, convenient and fast. Ye Olde Chesire Cheese Shop is the oldest pub in London dating back to the 1600's. We stopped in for drinks and some local pub fare that is clearly made for tourists. It was the proverbial bad food in London, but we knew it would be. It was the only bad food we had in London.
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| St. Ermins Hotel |
Wednesday 9/21
We started our day on the Hop on and Off bus. Recommended by the folks at Rick Steves as the way to start your trip in any big city. Headphone on we climbed to the top and saw the sites with spotty narration. T's high school pal lives in London and we planned to meet for lunch. We rode the bus until we had no more time and made our way to Dishoom restaurant. Dishoom is Indina food which is very popular in London now and this place had a good reputation and vibe to match. We sat and ordered drinks and waited on friend Julie. And we waited. She texted she was sitting near the front so we went from our back room seats to find her. Not there. So we texted back and she was at the OTHER Dishoom.
I just asked google and it told me closest yet wrong one. A rare phone/google/internet semi-fail. We made or way to the right one which was clearly more hopping and sat so they could catch up on years gone by. Food was great and it was lively. We enjoyed our time together and decided to stay in the area and walk around Covent Garden. A very hip place with shops and restaurants and outdoor dining even a string quartet playing in a very informal manner. Fun. We eventually found our way back to the Hop On bus after running in circles for a bit. But we stayed on and rode it for another 2 hours all around London. Great views of all the key places in a comfortable bus ride. And you learn the lay of the land. So once you've done the bus, you have an easier time finding your way around town. We hopped OFF once we are circled and then took a city bus back to St. James Park near our hotel. We were greeted with wine in the lobby as we walked in so we stayed and sat and talked about our first full day in London.
Dinner was selected at Barrafina in the Soho District. Tube and Uber took us everywhere we needed with speed and ease. We walked into the small kitchen bar only restaurant to be greeted by a 90 minute line. Everyone standing single file ogling the diners and waiting for their chance at whatever was being plated here. So we chose to wait.
Within 15 minutes the hostess came down the line asking if anyone wanted the table outside and one by one they refused until it got to us. We enthusiastically and hungrily accepted. The street was busy with cars and people and color as close as your arm, but we didn't mind and appreciated the charm and energy of this popular area. So we ordered Prosecco and tasted the Spanish sherry and ordered plate after place of amazing fresh delicious tapas. This was a Purple Pig Chicago moment! The food was great and the vibe was welcoming and communal. We met the newlyweds next to us on their trip from Boston USA. So we talked and talked and shared dish ideas back and forth. Octopus, small clams, quail, scallop ceviche all served up feet from the bustling street. It was a 3 hour evening that passed in moments.
We walked and saw the Hippodrome and the downtown Vegas vibe surrounding it. We kept walking that night back through Chinatown and across the Millennium bridge near the iconic London Eye. Crossing the bridge revealed a red moon rising on the horizon over the London. Beautiful! We stopped and snapped and selfied, not too successful in the dark but fun to try. It was one of many magic moments, we continued our midnight stroll back to St. Ermin's.
Thursday 9/22/16
"Tubed" to the Tower of London and took the audio tour to see the crown jewels and assorted weapons and devices. We scoured the grounds that is patrolled by legendary ravens. It is said if they leave, the tower falls. The tour was interesting and the views from the courtyards of modern London outside the walls makes for a very unique contrast. We marveled and appreciated this amazing city that relishes old and new with equal effort.
We hopped on a Thames cruise included with our Hop On and Off pass. We avoided a rushing tourist as the boat pulled up who ran the wrong way trying to be first on the boat. good laughs. It took us back down to Westminster, stopped for a quick sandwich near Big Ben and headed back to St. Ermin's for a brief break.
We made reservations at the Rubens hotel for afternoon tea. A beautiful formal setting, we sat in a booth facing the Royal Muse?? of Buckingham Palace no less. Sandwiches, Coronation Chicken, cucumber, clotted cream, scones and desserts stacked on a 3 tier tray. We each tasted a different tea and watched the bustling taxis and tourists of London through the window. We listened to a live piano played by Judy Shermans doppelganger. We played a quick round of "name that show tune" as she went through her repertoire.
Tonight was a planned theater in London night. All the usual show of the way were playing and we had seen most of them. But some early research turned up a play called "No Mans Land". The stars were Patrick Stewart and Sir Ian McClellan. Not too shabby on the London stage. I decided rather than wait and take my chances at TKTS I would but the seats since only a few remained. I found a pair center orchestra and paid full price for these great actors. We sat next to a woman here for the Sherlock Holmes convention. The girl in front of us overheard and said me too! Only in London.
After the masterfully acted play we walked around the West End looking for some after theater supper. Yelp guided us to Polpo (Octopus) and we sat in a cozy corner enjoying amazing tapas including scallops with peas, octopus (why wouldn't you here?), gnocchi with rainbow chard pesto, lamb meatballs and pizza with anchovies. All amazing and delicious. We sat next to a loud talking F bomb dropping American who had little concern for his rudeness to those around. He left at last and we giggled. But too soon. He was replaced with a loud talking Londoner. I guess rudeness in restaurants is global. But we only note it here because the bad things always stick in your mind longer and they help to tell a story in reverse. It was delicious and cozy. We wont forget that. A midnight walk back to our hotel took us over a beautiful bridge with the horizon moon rising behind the skyline of this great city. We stood and kissed and selfied and sighed. This was indeed a magical place.
Friday 9/23/16
We decided to hop the train and take a 30 minute ride out to Wimbledon. T has grown up watching tennis and has always admired this hallowed home of lawn tennis. Being so close we had to see it in person. We arrived to a quiet beautiful day and paid the fee for a guided tour with about 10 other folks from all over. Construction is underway to put a roof on the main court and other improvements that have to be made while the weather allows and before the season comes. We took some great pics and got to sat at the anchor desk for poses while the guide snapped all our shots. Now we are looking forward to seeing it all on TV and pointing to say we were there!
We stopped in for some pretty poor street side fish and chips before heading on the tube to St Paul's Cathedral. Once again the audio tour was our personal guide and took us through this historic house. Winston Churchill was laid to rest here and Diana was married to Charles. A place of British history and a beautiful place to see.
There is no doubt that TV travel personality Rick Steves was our best buddy on this adventure. More on that to come but in his book he says to skip the lines to the top of St. Paul's and venture across the street for a rooftop bar view of the city with the dome in the foreground. Not only a panoramic view but we popped for some champagne to toast a great day.
Our of convenience and proximity we sat for some Chinese food to end our day quietly. We did this twice on the trip and both times it was less than remarkable. So I wont.
Saturday 9/24/16
Today we rode the chunnel to Paris. Just saying this doesn't seem real. We have always wanted to go to Paris and ride the high speed train to get there. We had bought seats in the business class per Rick Steves recommendation and it was comfortable with a quiche meal and Kronenberg beer included. I sat by the window to try and record the speed but it was so smooth that it didn't really seem that fast. And you don't spend too long underwater. It was just a faster classier BART. Running back and forth all day the speed is only felt when an opposite passing train causes virtual suction. We looked at the countryside of England than emerged into the countryside of France and arrived in Paris.
We tried to find an Uber with no luck then walked to a cab to be directed to the carefully regulated lines. So it was the long way around but we hopped in for a ride to the Renaissnace Paris Vendome hotel. We were warmly greeted and our concierge had made dinner reservations as requested. We got some cash and the hop on bus map. The room was cozy but comfortable. We knew we would give up some size for this premiere location for exploring Paris. Breakfast was included every day and it was a delicious European buffet with cheese and meats, fruit and pastries and eggs if you want. Always a good way to start a day of walking and exploring.
So...we checked in and moved in and then headed out to see the Eiffel Tower. We could see it in the distance and we were determined to walk the Seine to see it. And we did. A 3.2 km walk took us through this city with the streets and parks alive with Saturday revelers. We arrived and stood at the base in wonder. T had her Rick S book and read some history as we sat and marveled not only at this world class place but at the idea that we were freakin' there! We sat for a long time and took it all in, then moved all around to photo it from every angle. This would only be the first dozens of dozens more from different vantages and at night. We sat with picnickers as vendors sold tourist junk and wine and champagne. We sat on the grass and marveled more at this almost stereotypical scene of a sunny afternoon in Paris.
Our first dinner reservation was at Bistro Paul Bert. This is now considered old school Parisian dining and not to be missed by first time food appreciators. We sat in the back corner of this comfortable casual house of culinary tradition. The menu is seasonal and brief and delicious. The waiter picked our wine and later a cognac and it was all perfect. We ordered and enjoyed tartar and fish and it was all delicious and causal. Not the stuffy french dining that we've always assumed. But we were seated next to the loud rude American. She spoke french and perhaps lived there now but the loud talking over every table in the zip code is never welcome. Our first dinner in France and we knew what the French were talking about when they say rude American. It wasn't us so T was patient while I shot daggers with my eyes to no avail.
Hey people are people everywhere in the world. The meal was wonderful and I had a plate of tartare that could feed 3. The desert was the biggest macaron we had ever seen, pick with raspberries. Every bite of this dinner was fantastic and fresh, not frozen as we would learn from Wendy Lyn on our tour.
Sunday 9/25/16
Today we used the Hop on and Off Bus. It was a spectacular ride shortened by a request to get buses off the streets downtown due to crowding. We stopped and were told to get off. We saw other buses, not quite sure what this was. Strike? We would continue some of it later.
We walked and headed for some the Loivre. Another nod to Rick Steves and his amazing audio tours. We down loaded them to our phones and pressed play together. Rick takes us on an efficient tour that hits all the highlights in about 90 minutes. He even tells you where to go. So easy and informative and
the best part is it's free! We quickly explored this world famous place of amazing art and made our way to Mona Lisa to see crowds ignore the other great art in the room.
Evening was near and it was time to head to Mass at Notre Dame. THE Notre Dame. The home of Quasimodo. We got there early to find our place in among the Parisians and tourists for a Mass led by the Bishop. A large organ played with a beautiful choir and we were both suddenly overwhelmed by the beauty and the presence of this place. It was a moving experience to marvel at this Cathedral and be part of this community for this time. A place that took more than 300 years to build and we sat and looked up and prayed the Mass. When it ended we just stood there and took it all in. After a few more pics it was off to dinner nearby.
I had found Bistro Bougnat online, looking for places we could walk to after Mass. We entered and were taken to the back room corner table in a cozy place in a building clearly hundreds of years old. It was warm and inviting and we felt truly among Parisians. We were greeted and offered wine and then we ordered. Octopus and Snails then Beef with potato cake and Shrimp Risotto. Rustic, delicious, perfectly prepared every single bite was a yum moment. We ate and poked forks into each others plates. The wine is almost ignored because the food keeps calling you back. Dinner ended after a couple hours and we walked back to our hotel through Paris at night.
Monday 9/26/16
Today was our private tour with Arnaud. He was recommended by the consultant and Rick Steves and we had seen him on an episode of the PBS show. We walked through tiny back roads on the left bank and explored homes of artists and historic churches. We sat on the street of a tiny cafe on a tiny street sipping coffee from tiny cups. This was Paris through the eyes of Parisian, warts and all. He did not spare his opinion on the current crowding in Paris and the place of religion in public. But it was all done to give us a glimpse into how Parisians feel about their city. We walked together for hours. We explored a candle shop, Cire Trudon, that has been making candles since 1643 then
stopped in a park for lunch at Park Bistro. We sat outside and enjoyed salad and conversation before heading off to tour part 2. We took the train and made our way up to Marmonte. This is where the famous artists would hang and drink and paint and drink. It is lined with shops and restaurants and apartments and looks like a painting. Probably because it is. We made the climb up the steps of the Sacre Cour for breath taking views of Paris below. We walked around and into the church above the city taking in all the knowledge Arnaud could impart about the building and the history and the area and more. We thoroughly enjoyed our day and we parted at the train station with American hugs and our thanks for a day we will not soon forget.
We had some time and decided to hop back on the Hop On Bus. It was evening and the lights of Paris were coming on. Once again around the Champs Elysees and the Eiffel Tower at dusk. The pictures tell the story as we sat and rode and relaxed after a long walking day. We stopped in at Fragonard for some french perfume gifts, then caught a quick rest at the hotel.
But then came dinner. This was the second of only 2 reservations we made in advance. We neither wanted to lock ourselves into time or spend the monthly mortgage on dinners. But tonight was our Paris splurge. After research and coin tossing we decided on Septime. We were seated at a small table for 2 at the front of the kitchen, a prized location for those who like dinner and a show like we do. We ordered the chefs 6 course menu and including the wine pairing since this is France.
From the very first bite followed by the very first sip this place was magic. The food was artful but the ambiance was casual. We even had a dog sitting with the couple at the next table. The wine servers gave brief simple explanations that never included words like "notes" or "oak". It was all about the region and how this wine represented that region and terroir and went well with the next plate.
And of it not only paired each glass with each course it actually felt like the wine completed the dish.
Amazing happy mouth experience.
Each course was incredible from tomato water to grilled artichokes to beets and leeks and white beans and sweet breads and cuttlefish served just enough to enjoy and savor and move on to the next course. Ah and don't forget to end the main meal with cheese. Then came 2 pourings at the same time. "These are for dessert". What?! That means....yes 2 desserts, and each one with its own wine accompanist. Where are we? It was food heaven in Paris. Every bite and every moment was perfect. And all in a comfortable warm casual environment. No pretense. It was nearly 3 hours before we pushed ourselves away not stuffed only satisfied in a special way. The dream to return begins immediately.
Tuesday 9/27/16
Today we would explore Paris on our own. We started with a stroll through the Jardin du Toilieres near our hotel and across the Seine to the Orsay museum. Another amazing museum guided by our buddy Rick Steves app tour. He gave us the brilliant overview in about 90 minutes and we enjoyed the views from the clock.
We decided to hop a train and head to Versailles. About a 45 minute ride we walked the last half mile to this beautiful historic place. Talk about opulent. This is the very definition. Ah, revolution. Today we walked and walked and walked. The grounds are immense and again our Rick Steves app guided us. We ended up outside in the gardens and found a spot to picnic with sandwiches from the stand. Watching tourists and taking in the views we strolled. And strolled. After nearly 10 miles of walking in one day according to fitbit we got lost on our way to the train and surely took the long way.
But we found it and tried to board with our tickets. But, the train we took to Versailles doesn't return to Paris at this time of day. And there is no train to Paris from this station. Time for our Amazing race skills to find the other train station, of course with help from our best travel friend, Google maps. We made it and hopped the train, in the wrong direction. We figured it out at the next stop and reversed our course for the ride back to Paris. After our mini marathon it felt good to sit on the train and relax with commuters about their days.
When we got back to Paris we decided tonight we would take the Seine River cruise. I guess you cant go to Paris without doing it and our tour guide was hysterical in 4 languages. We set off to pass under 20 or so bridges viewing the sights from the river and the people enjoying the banks on both sides. Wonderful photo opportunities up and down the river. We breathed in the cool evening air and kissed along the way. This was another thing we had long imagined doing, and here we were doing it.
Back to our room for relaxing cocktails and to make plans for late night dinner. Our awesome food guide Wendy Lyn recommended Ina Gartens favorite place in Paris called Fish. Uber took us to the door and we sat at the bar of this little french bistro. The food was delicious and we MAY have been sitting next to Stephne Izard the famous Chicago chef of Girl and Goat fame. We balked at saying hello and googled photos and decided to tell teh story of maybe we did see her...or not. Dinner was another amazing delicious comforting adventure. Now about midnight we strolled and then headed back to recall another amazing day.
Wednesday 9/28/16
Another Rick Steves audio tour guided our morning. This time it was around the Notre Dame Cathedral area of central Paris. The history of the city is interesting as we strolled and listened and photographed and kissed on the bridges.
The main attraction today was a private food tour guided by the famous Wendy Lyn. This was an accidental stumble on a web site while researching the trip and it was a very happy accident.
The tour started in front of xxxxxxxxxx where we were schooled on the order of the french meal and all that it includes, every time. The about the shop titles, a boulangerie or a boulanger. The first is the bakery and the later is the baker. So when searching for a good bakery in
France look for the boulanger, not just the
boulangerie. Fromagerie vs. Fromager we learned as we walked into a famous French Fromager.
This shop run by the only Fromager in Paris to receive the title of MOF, Meilleurs Ouvriers de France. There is even a fancy collar chefs wear to designate this honor. He was there that day but without his collar so Wendy told us he wants to be left alone, it is his day off. He may say hello to her but does not want to chat. And he did wish her Auvoire with a smile as we stood in admiration of him and well her too.
And so the tour continued as we chatted about where to get fresh food in Paris. "90% is frozen I hate to tell you" Wendy revealed. But if you know where to go and even more what to look for then you can find great food. We learned about cheese and the flavor and how to order. What flavor do you want? Salty? Nutty? how many people? Is it for today? The shop keeper will select it for you. This is what you want. And in the bakery, do you want it more will done or less well done, everything is available cooked the way you like. Crustier or softer lighter or darker, they will chose what is right for what you want. You dont walk to the counter and you don't gaze at cases of baked goodies. You wait in line, they call you forward and you say what you want. You must already know why you are there, this is a daily chore not a rare trip to the good bakery.
We ended the wandering afternoon tour at L'Avant Comptoir. An amazing tiny place serving tapas and wine and oysters and mussels and piles of fresh butter. Again we told the propitier what kind of wine we were in the mood for and he made the selection. Liberating really. And of course delicious. Wendy ordered us both some bread and oysters for me, mussels for T served in a tea pot because the broth is the best part and they serve it accordingly.
The day was delicious and we learned more in one day about food, the way the French approach a meal, the things to look for to find the best quality, all the things we will remember as we wander farmers markets back home....in San Diego.
Dinner was recommend by Wendy and so we followed it to Frenchie. Located on Rue du Nil, the Uber driver found it in a circular maze of streets that would have left us lost for sure. Another gold star for Uber. We had a breif wat and then were seated at a high top community table next to some delightful folks from Seattle. We discussed the politics of the day (2016 presidential election) and comforted each other in the knowledge that we dont know how a certain candidate could ever become president.
Our last conversation of denial I guess. So we ordered and we ordered, clams, and foix gras and other amazing casual dishes. We sipped our wine and I had a bop bop french beer. We were warm and relaxed and content in this heaven of casual french cuisine. Every bite was worth a comment. We do like to talk about food and even have been known to plan the next meal while at one. Is that bad or really good?
The meal ended around midnight and we ordered an Uber that couldn't find thier way. So we bailed out and walked and took the subway back home. Google maps seems to make any city accessible and we walked with confidence knowing we were headed in at least the right general direction.
Thursday 9/29/16
It was time to leave this beautiful city and head for the next leg of our journey. We Ubered again to the other Paris train station to take our bullet train to Lyon. The ride was quick and comfortable with some quiche and wine and beer to fortify us.
Listening carefully to the announcement in french we arrived at the Gare de Lyon Part-Dieu, a beautiful open modern station. It was time to rent our car for the rest of our trip through southern france. One look out the window we could see the rental car offices and dragged our increasingly heavier luggage to get the keys. Very friendly and helpful at the Hertz desk and we were on our way with a modern tech Ford including GPS to work alongside (sometimes not!) our Google map phone. Amazing how this one tool now is your camera, browser, nav and communicator. So cool how well it worked throughout.
We arrived in downtown Lyon and a short car ride to the Hotel XXXX in the heart of the city. Immediately we were out the door the catch the hop and and off bus at our front door. Off we went now experienced in the ways of the hop bus. Multiple headsets in hand and headed up top we drove down beautiful old city streets brimming with modern stores and busy with the day. Soon we made our way to the outskirts and were awed at the stunning juxtaposition of 18th century and 21st century architecture stand together. And the new buildings are eye-popping dramatic examples of modern construction. This city was under our skin quickly.
The bus climbed the hill to the as expected church at the top of the city. As we turned the corner and this church came into view we looked at each other and said it was time to hop off. The Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere We photoed and walked in to see the most exquisite cathedral we had ever seen outside of Rome. We wandered and awed and pointed examining all corners and learning what we could about the history. Built to thank Mary and to protect Lyon, standing since 1884.
The views of Lyon are spectacular and worth the bus ticket alone. We walked to the edge where the driver had said on a clear day you can see the Alps! And there it was! The Matterhorn. We needed a $1E telescope to see but what might have been clouds was clearly the great peak covered in snow. Incredible! So we walked around to try and absorb every inch inside and out of this sacred and amazing location. There was a sandwich shop so we grabbed a baguette with ham or something and headed for a hike off the side of the mountain to take in the magnificent view, unobstructed. We ate and awed then walked the steep trail back up the mountain to catch the bus back down.
We had no dinner plans so with some research and new found knowledge we googled and reviewed and discover Le Mere Brazier. Lyon is considered the food capitol of France and the bar is set high there. We sat in a beautiful room with other French couples and a solo American woman who was happy to talk to anyone around. So we chatted but tried to stay quiet and then the dining magic began. From beginning to end the meal was spectacular in a truly french way. Delicious and served in perfect proportions to allow for tasting many things. Including the table side hand cut home made marshmallow.
Not to mention the other amazing chocolates. The evening lingered on delightfully as we were treated like friends in a formal yet not stuffy manner. Then the chef appeared to greet us. What a nice surprise. Wearing his MOF collar was Matheau Viennay, only 2 Michelin stars, that's all. He shook our hands and we thanked him and probably gushed a little...a lot..but he moved on and we smiled in appreciation for understanding the celebrity of whom we had just met. Thank you Wendy Lyn.
We were concluding a full amazing day of travel and exploring a new city and we didn't want it to end. So we took a midnight stroll to the river XXX to take in the views from below the great cathedral. This place was truly magical to us. It hit a note for us and made us both fall in love very quickly. Only one night here. In the morning we walked the city center and bought some wine, met a corgi and took lots of pics. What an amazing place! We were in love with this place and vowed to return for more than 24 hours.
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| Best Omelette ever |
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| Lyon Corgi sighting |
Friday 9/30/16
We headed back to the train station and got on board our train bound for Avignon. About an hour and we arrived to find the rental car right out the front door. We dragged our increasingly heavy bags to the car and with very helpful service we were out in a modern Ford. Our GPS was included to help, or at times hinder, google maps on the phone.
We talked to google and got our directions and headed for the beautiful Auberge de Cassagne hotel outside Avignon in the town of Le Pontet. Once the wife and co-owner of the hotel checked us in with a warm welcome she asked us to sit in the next room and enjoy a glass of champagne before they escorted us to our room. Where were we? So we sipped and gawked at this beautiful little place. We were walked up to a spacious room overlooking the gardens and settled in for 2 nights.
Now we had a car and it was time to hit the road and see the south of France.
First stop was the roman theater ruins in Orange. These are the oldest Roman ruins in the world and they are in France. In fact, this is still an operating amphitheater seating thousands in the carved stone of this magnificent place.
We crawled all over and in to the rooms at the top to see videos of operas and concerts performed there in recent years. Incredible continuity of history gathered around a stage to share whatever tonights offering would bring. Community that endures today in the very same place for 2000 years!
We had limited sunlight left and we had to get to Tavel to taste the unique Rose from this area. We walked in and being a weekday, the place was empty but for us. So we tasted 3 differnent Rose's. As it turned out they are all the same grape grown in different terroirs that give each a distinctive taste and color and "minerality". We knew these had to come home in the suitcase since it is apparently not found far out of Tavel. So we bought 2 bottles without asking the price. Fingers crossed. It was a whopping $25 euros for 2 bottles. Should have gotten more for trip consumption.
Back at the hotel we had made reservations in the dining room. Why wouldn't you? The hotel owner is the chef! We sat in a nice dining room surrounded by guests and what appeared to be some locals as well-that was a good sign. We were greeted warmly and began the adventure that would be one of the truly great meals we enjoyed in Paris. The food was incredible and their wine choice for us was somehow perfect. Cantaloupe soup with jalapeno, lobster ravioli, Foi gras, olives, guinea fowl, filet of sole and on and on it went. We ordered the prefix course without the cheese cart but T couldn't take her eyes off the cart as it traveled the room and cheeses, dozens of them, were presented lovingly by the waiter. Pick 3 and he will tell you in what order to eat them. By the time we got our entrees the cheese cart had to be added to the meal. We had to at least try it. The biggest mistake would have been if we didn't. The cheese was transcendent.
Back to the room to rest and get ready for our next day of adventure in Avignon.
Saturday 10/1/16
The morning was rainy and we met our tour guide Alice at the visitors center inside Avignon, a quick 10 minute drive from our hotel. She greeted us warmly and we set off for walk through this historic place. We marched up and down tiny streets as she shared the history and the points of interest. We walked through the town market and she educated on the loca faire and vendors located all in this Avignon Les Halles. She grew up in Arles not far and would also be our guide there tomorrrow. We ended up at the Palais des Papes. The famous wine is from this area from the Chateau of the Popes. We said our goodbyes and headed back down the hill to the market.
We had heard about a place called Carrieres Lumieres and decided to pack a picnic, follwing Wendy Lyns instructions and goggled our way through the hillsides outside Avignon. Back roads, dirt roads, mountain roads until we found a suitable spot to stop and picnic. Roast chicken wrapped in bacon, fresh cheese, olives, bread and bottle of local wine. A perfect french meal! We made the last get to the Lumieres, found parking which was no easy feat and walked in to these ancient limestone caves. It was a huge cave of sorts with walls 75 feet high or more and people milling around. We wernt sure what to make of it when suddenly an announcemnt was made, the lights dimmed and a feast for the
sense of projections and sound covered every inch of this place. We were immersed in this artistic expression that made our jaws drop and mouths open wide in awe. What was this place?? It was reminiscent of the pageant of the masters in Laguna in that it was unique and mesmerizing. We stared and moved quietly through this massive space listening to the music and the images of Chagall and a tribute to Lewis Carroll. It was stunning and in the middle of nowhere, that is until you get there and the tour buses line the road. This was definitely one of the most interesting artistic presentations we had ever seen. One of a kind in the hills of France that left us excited by what we had just witnessed. The show runs about 30 minutes and includes music from classical to rock-some Janis Joplin- and all while images are projected in seamless 360 degree canvases. After photographing and videoing every thing I could in order to recall this magnificent show, we wandered back to the car and headed back to Le Pontet, nimbly guided but google maps.
We enjoyed an evening glass of wine and
decided tonight we wanted nothing fancy and found a Chinese restaurant nearby. Well we got our wish, the food was terrible likely due to the contrast of what we had been eating for the last many days. But it was cheap, fast and easy and filled us after another long day of burning as much daylight as possible.
Sunday 10/2/16
We made the short drive to Arles after saying our goodbyes at the Auberge de Cassagne and returning for wine we left on the front desk. Oh no! We arrived into the tiny streets of the quaint and historic Arles. The final direction from google maps was to "turn right". This right turn could not have been made by a bicycle let alone a car. Tiny streets with building so close together. So we parked in a nearby lot and asked the hotel to locate our car. They were on it in minutes, after showing them the pic of where we left it. We entered this resort like grounds (1860 style) and were shown a beautiful large room with a patio facing the grounds. Our Arles tour with Alice was set to start at 11am so we dropped our things and she met us at the hotel.
Now we were in her home, where Alice grew up. We walked the ancient ruins of an amphitheater and walked the very street Van Gogh walked and painted. Throughout this city are plaques showing the famous Van Gogh at the place he painted. The yellow awnings and all. We also visited the place that was once a hospital and treated a recently earless tortured Vincent. We learned about how to avoid the tourist traps and she walked us into a restaurant, her favorite, so she could personally book our lunch reservation. We would return later.
We walked the streets and she nodded at locals and gave out directions to lost tourists. We walked by the Rhone river and saw ruins of Roman baths. We ended in the town square to spend time looking at the Cathedral of St. Trophime. Built between the 12th and 15th centuries which in southern California terms is around the time of the dinosaurs, Alice pointed out the facade. You see, people then could not read. So the church had to tell its story in pictures. So she began to point out dozens of areas of interest in this facade representing all sorts of religious significance to this sacred place. We stared and studied and were overwhelmed at the magnificent detail that tells a story.
We said our goodbyes with hugs and gratuities and headed for the lunch reservation she had made for us. Le Criquet was the name of this little place off the main streets and we were seated upstairs. A small winding staircase led to our table where we were immediately greeted and we reviewed the options. Taureau is the specialty of this area of France and never having had we ordered it. Among other delicious items the bull was fantastic. It would appeal to the American palette but .. its a bull. We enjoyed the meal and the local families enjoying their Sunday meal.
We spent the rest of the day wandering the city then headed for a nice dinner walking near by. Another day done.
Monday 10/3/16
We asked the hotel to bring the car to the front door of this tiny alley so small the car barely fit. We set the GPS for our next destination, Cassis.
Our first stop was the Camargue National Park. We arrived to a very quiet parking lot and ventured inside to see what would be one of the most stunning sites we have ever seen. Wild flamingos, thousands of them, living here naturally. There are only a few places in the world where flamingos live and this place was spectacular.
We turned a corner on the path and there they were...everywhere. SO we hiked around this marsh on designated paths and took about a million photos and videos still uncomprehending what we were witnessing. Oh, and over there, wild white horse. Just hanging out not far from their flamingo bretheran. Not only flamingos but wild birds of all sizes and colors. We saw flamingos in formation flight looking like pterodactyls. Amazing, stunning, jaw dropping. This was not the LA Zoo with smelly flamingos this was a UNESCO designated biosphere reserve. We were in awe.
We continued heading to the southern most tip of France to a beautiful town called Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Signs warning us about stray bulls greeted us in the town square. But no sightings. We strolled and checked out cafe after cafe to fund just the right spot to ogle at our pink winged creatures. We sat out front of a small cafe and were greeted by just about the only person we encountered who didn't speak any English. So as we would do he just spoke slower and louder. I used google translate and pointed at the menu and ordered the fresh Dorado. It came whole and was perfect. The waiter suggested I use some of the local salt and it was the perfect complement to the fish. We enjoyed a casual delicious lunch and people watched on this fairly quiet street.
The salt had gotten our attention and the flamingos are on the label, we headed to the local shop to find some and stock up and gifts for friends back home. Back to the car and we continued on our journey trying to hug the coast as best we could. We got a little lost in Marseilles because the highways converge so closely it was hard to tell which road google wanted us on. But we made it through the traffic and then down the vineyard lined hills into the coastal valley to the seaside town of Cassis. We pulled up across from the beach to the beautiful Hotel De La Plage - Mahogany.
We checked in and rode the tiny elevator up to the third floor, turned the key to our room and there was paradise. A panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea and a huge balcony overlooking it all. The plan all along was for this place to be a beach destination to do little to nothing for a couple days after going non stop from dawn to midnight. And so we aggressively did just that. Nothing. We sat on the balcony and ate cheese and drank wine and watched the daylight change by the minute. Non stop engaging nothing. Off to the beach for a dip in the salinity heavy sea, you can float so easily. And we watched others enjoy the beach, some topless albeit old, and some jump from a low cliff at waters edge. Back to the room to shower and then a 5 minute walk to the harbor to evaluate restaurants on site from the street. We picked one and ate and yes, another incredibly delicious, simple casual meal. Sitting outside in France however does expose you to cigarette smoke but it was warm and well it was France. We walked the harbor and kissed under the moon at midnight back to our hotel.
Tuesday 10/4/16
We woke up to the sun so we could take sunrise photos over the Mediterranean and walked back into town to catch a boat tour of the Calanques. We decided to take the full 3 hour tour and see all nine of these incredible inlets. Crystal clear torquise water surrounded by magnificent limestone cliffs. This has to be seen to be appreciated. The photos here will tell more than describing a delighful boat ride with a dog on board. We met an ex-patriot from NY who lived in France and we chatted the whole time about the unfortunate state of American politics and places we had been and places to eat and life. She recommended Corsica as our next destination. Fingers crossed.
We walked into this small seaside village and criss-crossed the streets watching lunch crowds and exploring the lively scene on every street. We pushed to get back from the port to avoid what is likely more touristy to find just the right place. I don't think any place there would have been but the rule of "keep walking" was used again to find the right fit for the moment. XXXXX lunch in cassis.....
It was time to head back to the beach so we bought wine and bread as our companions, then stumbled upon some snorkeling gear that was on end of season blow out. (Later to be discarded as weight in our baggage). So 11 euros and I had a kit to see below the crystal blue Mediterranean water.
We headed back to the beach with it and only it on our agenda. We watched families and singles come and go enjoying the sunny day. I swam out a few times and observed a little sea life but it more the color of the water and the views from the water. At one point after coming in we looked back to see 3 large white manta rays swim by. I turned and quickly went out again but they were gone.
The evening before we had watched a father teach his son how to jump from a 30 foot cliff into the sea. The dad showed him the edge then talked to him then jumped. After a great deal of consideration and stalling the boy jumped in, we cheered from our balcony.
Well if that boy can do it so can I! Carefully considering local hospitalization I climbed the slippery rock in flip flops, stood at the edge, put my shoes on a lower rock to retrieve later, then I did a great deal of consideration. It didn't look so high from over there. T was filming, no time to turn back. On 3! It was incredible. Nothing to fear and I waved and swam back to the rock to get my flip flops then climbed out. That will be some great video...for me.
The sun passed over and changed the colors on the cliffs and rocks and sea. We soaked it in and soaked in it. We had achieved a deep breath on our whirlwind journey.
Back to the room to shower and cocktail and watch another sunset drenched view. Then to the port for dinner. Tonight the food was even better. Chez Gilbert Lobster bisque and fish tartare that we call sashimi but is priced inexpensively and the plate is full of fish in a wonderful sauce. We drank the local wines and enjoyed a nice late meal as the place was emptying out. We were the last to go as staff was singing and sweeping.
Our last night in Cassis so we walked as much as we could take just to get it all in. This place was beautiful and relaxing and a perfect beach getaway. We would love to return someday and stay for a week or forever.
Wednesday 10/5/16
Today we would road trip to Nice. We did what we could to again hug the coast and made several stops along the way for beautiful vistas or a quick pit stop. We ended up for lunch in the won of Hyeres. It was just where we were when it was time to eat. We drove around and around this small town looking for parking to get to the area that appeared to be restaurant row. We found it on the street then again followed the rule of keep walking to get to a little place up the hill tucked in back. Les Templiers was a great spot for a fresh bite and to see some of the historic town that includes an old Templier or temple. We didn't really come to explore so we knew little about this town and its history. There is plenty of it. But we were on a day drive along the coast and just allowing our internal gps to guide us to what we wanted to see next. Mostly the beautiful coast of southern France.
We made our way to busy Nice and the hotel Boscolo Exedra, had a huge subway project going on in front. We couldn't figure out how to get there. Around and around until we found public parking nearby and walked a few blocks to the hotel. A little frustrated we were shown to our room that had of course the massive construction project out the window. It was time to exercise some Marriott customer service and we were gladly relocated.
In the evening we headed for dinner at another Wendy Lyn recommended place, Le Bistro du Fromager. We had learned in Paris the difference between the fromagerie where cheese is sold and fromager where the cheese maker does his work. Same with boulangerie and boulanger, bread and bread maker. So in name alone this was the real deal. And it was. We were escorted into a cave like room and nothing but delicious arrived after that. We liek to talk about food anyway but now we were talking about how all the food in everyplace in France was truly noteworthy. It is a passion and culturally required rule that you had better not suck. If you seek out the good places you are guaranteed some level of culinary treat.
Back to the room through the streets of this upscale modern city to rest from our day long drive.
Thursday 10/6/16
Today we would fly back to London for the last leg of our trip. We had time to stroll the main street in Nice. Sadly this is the place of the terrible attack on Bastille day the previous July. Heavily armed guards roamed along side us and we paid our respects at the town square, filled with flowers that serves as a temporary memorial. It was filled with sadness of all the innocent people murdered. We observed in silence and prayed for better days in our world.
Uber whisked us back to the airport for our British Airways flight to Gatwick. BA knows what they are doing and they do it right. Our luggage was overweight, with wine and cognac we had carried from Tavel and Cassis. It was time to toss less important things, pretty much anything else. The agent gave us a small bag we could check that we could put things in and wouldn't carry an expensive baggage fee. The could not have been more helpful.
We had lunch in the airport and ate our last baguette in France. We boarded the flight that was running late and landed outside London in a couple hours. We got in the long line for train tickets and tried to matriculate our way through the bank of machines to get the right ticket, get on the right platform, take the right train and in the right direction. We managed after a few questions.
The ride into London was about an hour and we arrived the the St. Pancras train station. A huge bustling place teaming with people inside and out. Our hotel, the Marriot St Pancras, was a spectucular old building. It once was the train station and now sat as part of it with windows from the hotel into the train station. We checked in at the grand front desk and were upgraded to a beautiful room.
It was dinner time and some quick research found a place in walking distance. Very nice spot with really good local IPA and warm comfort fare. The waitress was so nice and told us she "loved" our American accents. We joked about how to say risotto our way and her way. We were now ready to head home the next morning.
Friday 10/7/16
Breakfast at the hotel was great and T enjoyed the best cappuccino she has ever had. High ceilings and historic architecture with some careful lighting mad this place glow. We had some time to kill so we walked the area of King Cross and into the Church of St. Pancras. Light rain started to fall so we headed back and found refuge in the hotel bar to toast farewell and begin to reminisce about the trip of a lifetime together.
The Uber ride to Heathrow was over an hour with packed roads and commuters on this Friday afternoon. Even the Uber driver complained how he hated the traffic and would usually avoid London. We planned plenty of time to hope our 11.5 hour flight back to Los Angeles. We were served a meal then the seat in front of me reclined to serve me my beer all over my lap. I was pissed but took deep breaths or this would really be a long flight. I dried best I could, got some towels and they brought a now much needed replacement beer. If this was the worst thing to happen in our trip, so be it!
We were succesful in staying awake through the entire flight so when we arrived at LAX at 9pm we would be in the mood for bed. Custom lines and LAX traffic made the airport a nightmare to navigate and we couldnt get an Uber since it was grid locked. We spotted a hotel shuttle that would drop near ours and hopped on to escape the true horror of LAX on a Friday night. This would not be missed in San Diego.
Another night at the nearby Renaissnace to try and get back in sync. Not that easy for me in either direction. Our daughter met us in the morning with the car to head back to our new home in San Diego. The bed, the chair, it all feels great when you've been away for 3 weeks.
We had done it. Self planned and executed we did it all and then some. This trip will forever be carved in our memories as an excellent example of TnT Travel Adventures.
It's a familiar sight now, San Francisco at Christmas. But growing up in Southern California it requires some travel to get any sense there is winter out there someplace and that the Christmas downtown spirit and experience is alive someplace other than New York.
And like clockwork we headed to our happy lunch place, Hog Island at the Ferry Market. We stood in line under heaters avoiding some rain and peering in at fortunate seated diners. Sardines, sliders and those amazing oysters kick started our holiday visit. 
We were there to once again "compete" in the now 7th annual Jingle Beer Run. Its a 5k that includes a beer or bloody mary at the finish line. Questions? In the event of a tie run there is a drink off. All true. But this year it rained and poured and was SF cloudy grey. So we took an Uber to the finish line to join in the post run festivities. There were some braver souls who did the run and were soaking wet and we toasted in a warm tent being tossed in the rain and wind. (In hindsight this is the moment we both had colds when we got home) We celebrated the winners and greeted some acquaintances and enjoyed the invisible harbor views. 
Then part 2 of our Christmas in SF is the annual Santa Con. Hundreds of Santas on a pub crawl across the city in groups with elves and snowmen and reindeer. Festive and fun this year was hindered tremendously by the rain. Where last year there were hundreds of not thousands this year stood a few dozen of the dedicated. We made a walk through and photoed then headed into the dry Macy's to see where Santa was hiding. 
Evening fare was to be casual we had made no reservations and didnt want to wait too long. So we found Hogwash, a little pub with some great chow and sausages from Chicago. It was delicious with a window stool facing Sutter street. Great beer choices and warm atmosphere made this place a go again choice a short walk from our hotel. Amazing how many great places there are in the city to discover. Its part of what keeps us coming back. No plans, just walk. And it works. Every time. 
We continued to wander and very much by accident we discovered the lands end trail that hugs the coast and goes a couple miles thorough untouched coastal terrain. It was muddy and damp but we marched on and were treated by some of the most spectacular views of the city and the GG bridge we ad ever seen. 
were all there to order the famous tea leaf salad. It is delivered to the table and carefully explained then the dozen or so ingredients are tossed together to create the most perfect tasting salad perhaps on the planet. This is a not to be missed place here and will now enter our rotation for places we will try hard to get to when in town. 
Our last day was spent riding the historic street car. We hopped on one and noticed the cars origin was San Diego. This was our first trip from our new home to SF and it made us smile. 
Crab was the goal. A big live fresh one from our spot the Alioto Lazio Fish Co. Walk to the end of the wharf and keep going. They will pack it for travel, still alive...for the time anyway.
Safely checked in our luggage with a loaf of sourdough nearby, we got home and boiled the water. That's the last thing I remember. Delicious in season fresh dungeness crab! 
