Kauai in March
Tuesday 2/28/17
Alaska Airlines added a nonstop flight from San Diego to Kauai. They offered a fantastic intro round trip and T and her flight tracking prowess snagged an amazing fare. A new Marriott was opening in an existing property and we booked a deal with a car included.
We landed in the rain and made the short walk to a shuttle and to the rental car. We picked up a "middsize" that could have worked weekends as a clown car so I made a U turn after only 4 blocks in the torrential rain to pick up a larger chariot. We like to drive on these trips to cover as much territory as we can and today it would rain 5 inches!
First stop Costco. Second stop, Snorkel Bobs. Check.
Our room wasn't ready at the beautiful Marriott so we decided to have lunch in a restaurant with a covered patio. The customers and the staff marveled at the ferocity of the downpour and we ate while being misted and avoiding roof drips. Very tropical!
We checked in and were treated to a room in the new building with the huge saltwater pool outside still under construction. The view was spectacular and we enjoyed watching the construction that was of no consequence to us. We used the other pool a couple times but mostly the big pool ocean.
We put out some balcony snacks and libations and watched the rain pass by until dinner. There were a few local places to eat that were decent but pricey. We knew we would be making our own dinners when we could. And we did.
Wednesday 3/1
The room was quiet and comfortable and we always leave the curtain open a little to let in the morning light. I opened my eyes and right out the window was a spectacular rainbow. Good morning Kauai. We jumped out of bed and marveled at the beauty. We made coffee and started our day.
The rain had washed a significant amount of Kauai into the ocean. They are known for their red soil and it created a huge red and muddy slick against the shore. We drove to a snorkel spot only to realize it would be low visibility and probably for a few more days until it was clear and safe.
So we drove a bit up the road to see the spouting horn. The waves rush in and create a fun show for 5 minutes and if a bus pulls up its time to go. We photoed and hopped back in the car.
I wanted to see Waimea Canyon so I talked to google and off we went. Within a few miles I realized we weren't going to Waimea Canyon we were going to Wailua Falls. We continued. T read up on them in the car and said if the water low is heavy there will be one large fall instead of 2 distinct falls. And so it was, a huge pretty muddy waterfall. You can drive and park right next to the falls and stand on the edge. The sound and force of it is awesome. It calls you to watch and be amazed while it creates occasional rainbows at the bottom. So we awed and photoed some more, enjoying the quiet season allowing us to park nearby.
Up the road we saw a sign for Kamokila Hawaiian Village so we decided to explore. For a small admission fee we wandered these sacred grounds virtually alone. The huts are arranged from the chief to dining halls to special huts for women. An early version of a city of sorts. They also offered kayak tours to a fern grotto but the weather and muddy water conditions made it unappealing and it was empty.
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It had been a great day of exploring so we headed back to our balcony retreat and sunset. Today was Ash Wednesday so we found a small old local church and went to the evening services. There is always a warm spirituality in Hawaiian churches when we go.
Back to the room for Kauai beef burgers homemade in the room. T cooked and prepped on the bed while I set the table by the door and we enjoyed a delicious meal at a fraction of the price of island dining.
Thursday 3/2
After waking up to a double rainbow, we drove to Waimea canyon to explore this "Grand Canyon of the Pacific". It truly was, but more accessible and explorable (?) by car. The drive is easy and there are incredible vistas practically around every turn with a lookout located at the end of the road. You feel higher than the helicopters that shuttle tourists for the views. We stopped to climb even further up to the points and views and took in this incredible Hawaiian landscape at
Kokee State Park. It was so amazing we went around twice to see the views as the clouds painted different light on the green mountains.
At the end of the road is the
Kalalau State Park Overlook. The road ends basically on the back side of the majectic NaPali coast. This view is usually from the sea or from a helicopter, but to drive to it was spectacular. We snapped multiple photos and stood in awe of where we were.
The drive back down was also scenic with the pacific out the windshield. We meandered down the mountain road, noting more of the mud in the water, and found a beach to sit and sun for a bit. Blue skies, crystal water, the canyon behind us, it was Kauai in the raw. The island really is the most natural of them all and offers an un-spoiled view of what has long been a Polynesian paradise.
We headed back and make a quick U-turn at the Kauai coffee company to see what was brewing. They were serving about 10 varieties all free and all very good. We saw a self guided tour and followed a trail of signs to learn about what once was sugar cane now grows coffee. We learned the sugar cane is gone. The very last plantation is due to shutter after this years crop. Its all moved offshore. And now they are reinventing their crops with coffee. Its a start anyway.
We had already passed a shave ice food truck called
Fresh Shave. We stopped to have our very first ever for both of us shave ice. And it was delicious. This tiny place makes them with fresh ingredients and not that sugary syrup normally found in a rainbow of colors. They have already opened in Long Beach. A great concept in a tiny truck that will likely launch into bigger and better things than a roadside trailer.
We hit the market on the way to the room for some fresh Kauai beef. Then it was toodle time on the balcony for a beautiful sunset, some snacks and libations.
T did her magic with dinner turning a loaf and a fish into a banquet. We pulled up the table in the room to see outside and enjoyed the end of another great travel adventure day.
Friday 3/3
Birthday! Our booked adventure started at 9am at the local harbor. We boarded with about 20 others to head to the NaPali coast for a day of snorkeling and sight seeing. The weather this time of year normally doesnt allow for north ward departures but we were lucky and got to do the nice side of the island. Not that there is a not nice side... We even put up our sail for about 30 minutes when winds allowed. The captains were great and the boat fully stocked with food and fun. It even had a water slide for when we reached our destination.
The view of the exclusive Niihau, a private island with limited access to outsiders beckons 17 miles away like it was 1 mile. They are famous for the shell jewelry they make thier with painstaking precision and collection of tiny matching shells. Each piece can take a year to create and no 2 are alike. I mention this because we bought one later for T with her gift card from her former gig. Anyway the day was great although the snorkeling was murky from the storms and would be for a couple more days. But fun to play and use the slide and swim the the deep waters under the cliffs. We ended snorkeling with a nice lunch and the cooler was opened with local beer. We headed back chasing whales and spinner dolphins along the way.
Captain Andy's does it right. We would do it again and recommend it to friends. Another great TripAdvisor find. It is by far one of the best travel sites out there.
Now a perfect evening to get in the jacuzzi back at the hotel. We mixed our beverages and toted them with us, on ice. We met some people from San Diego and her son was on our flight staying at that hotel. I guess not that big a coincidence, meeting people from home in Hawaii. We had been invited to try the new restaurant at the hotel. They had recently become a Marriott and the property was being readied. We make good guinea pigs for free food so off we went. The server admitted how nervous she was. They did fine, food was Marriott hotel quality fare. Decent but not a destination.
Saturday 3/4
Today we headed to the tip of the island on the other end, Hanalei and Princeville leading to the start of the Kalalau trail into the stunning Na Pali coast. Along the way we stopped and photoed and walked, enjoying the drive along this scenic route. It drizzled and was gray but still tropical and coastal. We explored some caves along the Kuhio highway and beaches that called to us. At one stop, a woman was selling coconut water armed with coconuts and a machette. $5 was worth it just for the show. Hack! Cut! Straw. Tastes like paradise.
Another great day of adventure, we decided on grilling some fresh local fish for dinner. We picked up some pineapple and arugula and well, T made a masterpiece. We pulled up at our room table and peered off the balcony in the setting sky enjoying our culinary success.
Sunday 3/5
Today was crash at the beach day. Why do you come here anyway? No driving, just beach chairs and sunscreen on Poipu beach. This is an easy place to snorkel and he variety of fish is amazing.
Every time I got in the water I saw something new. The water was still murky from the storms so the visibility was poor, but there are so many fish you don't need to see far for spotting. All day, sun snorkel, repeat. I shot some great video on the little point and shoot so at night we would review it while sipping and watching spectacular sunsets.
Monday 3/6
Repeat of yesterday since it didn't suck. The views are stunning and its pretty easy to sit there for hours. We yanked ourselves away to the call of The Shrimp plantation in Waimea. Fried shrimp and fries cant beat it. We wandered back to the hotel to explore and go across the street to the sunset wall. Every nght we had watched people gather here for the sunset so we went to see it at sea level. It was beautiful. Then we spotted a corgi and I lost T as she went to make new furry friends. So I took another gazillion pics and we headed back to make dinner.
We had stopped earlier and picked up some fresh market poke from the counter along with a bag of fresh veg. Then back to the local market to get fresh Kauia grown beef steaks. Off to the grill as T made a plate of goodness to go with it. Dinner in our room is cheaper and often better and this trip we seemed to hone our limited space cooking skills. Another day done.
Tuesday 3/7
We stopped for morning coffee and a local shack then back to Poipu beach. Each day the water visibility was getting clearer and the colors brighter. A turtle came on the beach for some great posing and the roosters crowed all around. Did I mention the roosters? Everywhere, all the time, Kauai. Good morning and good night. And howdy during the day at the beach. Roosters at the beach is an interesting dichotomy. Not here.
Time for lunch, we wanted to try some local raman which is saimin in Hawaii. Its a soup dish with noodles like ramen but Hawaiian.
Hamura Saimin is a really good and the food is served in a semi sketchy sit at long counters kind of place. Great to meet people and share recommendations. Food was great and a fun trip to explore this little spot tucked by the airport. We explored the area and found another shave ice place. The contrast was stark. Our last one was delicious and this was sweet syrup snow cone. Oh well, compare and contrast.
We had another evening walk then dinner (our only reservation) at
Hukilau Lanai at the Kauai coast resort. It was a nice setting and and dinner was very good, but we had set the bar high cooking local ingredients ourselves. The fish selections was local and interesting so we tried things you wouldn't get elsewhere.
Wednesday 3/8
Back to reality today but first breakfast on the balcony courtesy of T and her Costco/market magic. Proseco and tropical fruit go well together, over and over. Simple and so great.
We bid farewell and took our bargain direct fight on Alaska Airlines back to San Diego. We had enjoyed this island alot for its still tropical nature. Its not overrun with buildings and traffic. It represents the laid back hawaiin lifestyle. And we had seen every inch of it accessible by highway with many great view vantage points. We hope to be back soon.
This was a combo conference and fun trip. It was a business trip for T and I tagged along to explore this "weird" city.
Some places we pick just because of the name and in a world of &'s we zeroed in on Odd Duck. A truly Austin joint we were seated at the bar, a favorite now that we are two. This spot did not disappoint. The vibe was fun and casual and the food elevated. The menu alone was worth a second read. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner with some local brews and headed back to the beautiful and convenient Marriott downtown.
The conference started on Sunday so we went our separate ways and I joined a tour group to hop in a van and learn what I could in 3 hours. Always interesting facts about cities on these small tours. The capitol tour was amazing and learned all about the pink granite and the deal they made to build all city buildings with it. About the bats and how they are all females. (spoiler alert) About the amazing 250-ish food trunks in the city. You learn things like which street to find music bars to avoid the tourist main drag. A unique Austin only vibe. Sure its a little like Portland but Portland stole their slogan. "Keep Austin Weird" was first and I think well deserved.
Tonight we would get right over to the Congress Avenue bridge to watch the bats launch on the overnight feeding frenzy. The story is too long for here but follow the link and see a truly amazing spectacle. Tens of thousands of bats-all females- come out at dusk for an all night feeding frenzy consuming three times their body weight in insects. Another tour bus factoid.
Monday 6/5 was another conference day. I took the chance to drive the city and the outskirts to get a view of the neighborhoods surrounding the city. I stopped for a famous jackalope sausage at Franks , known for their sausage. The website is hotdogscoldbeer.com, that pretty much explains it.
Dinner at the Salty Sow. Swine, Wine Beer. Another well named establishment that was fun and delicious. We shared a flight of cocktails and some truffle deviled eggs. Some great pub food and cocktails is always a good choice on the road.
At night we ventured into a few of the live music bars. We watched musicians roam in and out the door hopping on stage to join the jam then heading out again. We could have sat for hours. And we nearly did trying to squeeze every last moment out of our short adventure.
This was a quick trip but it gave us a chance to see a new place. A great place to visit!
